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KMID : 0604520050310010017
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Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
2005 Volume.31 No. 1 p.17 ~ p.23
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New Whitening Agent : Selina-4(14), 7(11)-dien-8-one
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Kim Cheong-Taek
Kim Jeong-Ha
Kim Hyun-Pyo
Heo Moon-Young
Chang Yun-Hee
Lee Sang-Hwa
Kang Sang-Jin
Cho Wan-Koo
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Abstract
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We had previously reported that Selina (selina-4(14), 7(11)-dien-8-one) was isolated from methanol extract of Afractylodes rhizome and has strong whitening activity in B16 melanoma cells. In this report, we demonstrated its action mechanism in melan-a cells, non-tumorigenic melanocytes. We also investigated the clinical efficacy of cosmetic preparation containing Selina. Selina reduced the melanin synthesis of Melan-a cells by 50% at a concentration of 10 {mu}g/mL without any apparent cytotoxicity. We also found that the treatment of cells with Selina decreased tyrosinase activity by 60% at a concentration of 10 {mu}g/mL but Selina was not a direct inhibitor of tyrosinase activities. To elucidate the action mechanism of Selina, we investigated the changes in mRNA and protein level of tyrosinase, TRP-1 and TRP-2 using RT-PCR and western blotting, respectively. As a result, the mRNA and protein level of tyrosinase were markedly reduced at 10 {mu}g/mL of Selina without any effect on TRP-1 and TRP-2. These results suggest that Selina exerts its whitening effect mainly through regulating expression of tyrosinase. A 7 week-clinical trial using formulation containing 0.2% selina-4(14), 7(11)-dien-8-one with 20 volunteers resulted in statistically significant whitening effect (p < 0.05), without any adverse effect. Based on these results, Selina (selina-4(14), 7(11)-dien-8-one) can be s useful and safe ingredient for the cleanness and brightness of skin.
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KEYWORD
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melanogenesis, skin whitening, selina-4(14), 7(11)-dien-8-one
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